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Friday, October 30, 2020

You Can Zoom in On Princess Diana's Wedding Dress With "The Queen and the Crown" - Vogue

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But aside from the surreal, virtual exhibition space, the costumes highlighted hold their own. The Queen's Gambit may be the newer project, but with its 1950s and early 60s costumes and exploration of elegant destinations, it's a visual treat, especially given the current travel restrictions. In telling the story of Beth Harmon, an orphan-turned-chess-master played by Anya Taylor-Joy who electrifies the game's male-dominated scene, recreates the mood of an era while providing insight into the protagonist's troubled mind. "She comes from this poor background and an orphanage, where she didn't have a context for fashion, so it's something she's had to discover on her own," says costume designer Gabriele Binder. "I always tried to have her be outstanding and different from everyone else around her, whether at school or in [chess] where all the other players are men."  

The complexity of the period's gender dynamics and Beth's eventual descent into addiction had to be worked into Taylor-Joy's costumes, several of which had multiple versions depending on the scenes’ level of tumult. "That was fun because there's one side of her is glamorous and another that is destroyed," says Binder, who referenced designers like Pierre Cardin and Saint Laurent while creating. "We have a dress that is very Cardin, but it's created in this fabric that is too heavy, instead of something that would have been used during that era. We wanted to show how Beth's life had gotten too heavy." The drama may be intense, but Binder allowed for fun moments and a playful chessboard motif that carries through Beth's entire wardrobe. "There is no perhaps in chess. It's about contrasts: black or white, win or lose," she says. "I thought we needed that minimalism and the ’60s have so much of that in looks from Mondrian, Cardin, and Saint Laurent. I wanted to connect the fashion with the game because it's the most important thing in her life, and she would intuitively seek out [clothes] that mirror it."

Photo: Courtesy of Netflix
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October 30, 2020 at 09:15PM
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You Can Zoom in On Princess Diana's Wedding Dress With "The Queen and the Crown" - Vogue

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