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Tuesday, March 16, 2021

Skirt steak brings out the boldness of this red wine - Santa Rosa Press Democrat

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Our Wine of the Week, Alma de Cattleya, 2019 Sonoma County Red Wine ($27), is big, bold and generous, with plenty of fruit and layers of flavors. I notice blackberry, black raspberry, black currant and hints of both cassis and milk chocolate.

On first sip, the wine has a lovely silken texture, but as the finish emerges, tannins turn a bit dry and rough. This quality is key to successful pairings. The wine does not show well with raw garlic or too much bright spice. Roasted garlic is a good match, though; roasted garlic meatballs flatter the wine beautifully.

There is one dish I think is the wine’s soul mate, Cincinnati Chili Spaghetti, which is exactly what it says it is, a mound of spaghetti topped with chili Colorado and a lot of grated cheddar cheese. (The recipe, published here in 2019, is available on the newspaper’s website.)

When it comes to pairing the wine, look for rich flavors and textures, which will mitigate those dry tannins that blossom on the wine’s lingering finish. A traditional ragout is a great match, as are braised beef shanks, braised lamb shanks and most beef stews.

Certain cheeses flatter the wine, which leads to several possibilities, from a simple grilled cheese sandwich on high-quality hearth bread to an elaborate cheese fondue with good bread, roasted beets and roasted potatoes for dipping. Vegetarians will enjoy it with beet risotto and mushroom risotto. For a quick afternoon snack, set a small round of Brie in a moderately heated oven until it just melts, then enjoy it slathered on croutons.

You also can take this wine in an entirely different direction by engaging it with soy sauce. You’ll enjoy it with teriyaki, either beef, chicken thighs or wild Pacific king salmon. Today’s recipe takes inspiration from these foods in a simple, quick dish that is much more than the sum of its parts.

Skirt Steak with Sesame-Soy Dressing

Serves 2 (easily doubled)

4 tablespoons sushi-quality soy sauce

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon white sesame seeds, lightly toasted

10 to 12 ounces skirt steak

Kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

Generous handful of fresh salad greens, such as microgreens from EarthWorker Farm

Put the soy sauce in a small bowl; add the lime juice, sesame oil and sesame seeds and stir. Taste and correct for acid balance, adding more lime juice to taste. Set aside.

Set the skirt steak on a clean work surface and season it all over with salt and pepper. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Set a heavy skillet over high heat and when it is very hot, add the meat. Cook for two minutes, turn and cook for 2 minutes more. If it is particularly thick, you may want to cook it for 2 ½ minutes per side. Do not take the meat past medium-rare or it will be much too tough.

Transfer to a work surface and let rest for 5 minutes.

Sprinkle the salad greens with salt and divide between two plates.

Cut the meat into thin, crosswise slices and arrange it on top of the greens. Drizzle some of the dressing over it and enjoy right away, with the remaining dressing alongside.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.

The Link Lonk


March 17, 2021 at 04:48AM
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Skirt steak brings out the boldness of this red wine - Santa Rosa Press Democrat

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